DAY 9-10 - June 9-10, 2004
"...scenes of visionary enchantment", said Lewis of the White Cliffs

Day 8

The White Cliffs

The Flight of Discovery crew spent this day travelling through one of the most scenic parts of the Missouri, through an area that was recorded in the journals of the members of the original Corps of Discovery as the "White Cliffs". This is one of the most untouched, undeveloped, and wild areas of the river from the time of Lewis & Clark's original expedition. The rocks of the cliffs consist mainly of a sandstone derived from volcanic ash.

During a brief lunch and fuel stop at Ft. Benton, the Botonist discovered some native plants, including native grasses, and Lewis flax, named for Meriwether Lewis.

The final leg of the journey on this day took the crew up through the area where the original five Great Falls of the Missouri tumbled. The falls have since all been dammed, and power plants have been put in. After landing in Great Falls, with a forecast for bad weather for the following day, the crew decided to lay over and explore Great Falls another day.


Cessna Flight Operations


Weather

Great Falls, MT (GTF)

47o 28.92'N
111o 22.24'W

Runway 03/21
Length 10,502' x 150'
Elevation 3677'

1834 Z Time/ 12:34 Local Time
Winds variable/ 03

Visability = 10
Scattered 2000'
Overcast 2700' Density altitude 4200'
Temp 17/ Dew point 8
(Icing over the mountains - unable to fly on 06-10-04)

Expedition Leader's Notes

Day 9
Wonderful morning flying above the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge. Over the dam at Fort Peck, we stay high enough to avoid causing any disturbance in this pristine area of blue water and dramatic geology. With the reservoir level low, it's fairly easy to trace the "submerged" river channel of the Missouri.

We hug the left bank of Fort Peck Lake in the Caravan in case we need to make an emergency landing… lots of space for that. Weather is perfect as we make the great northern bend at the Musselshell River… its bed nearly dry but with the river running underground as evidenced by the green sward meandering through the bottom of a steeply etched valley.

River valleys on the north and south sides of the Missouri appear perched and dry… evidence of geologic uplift and prolonged drought. Passing the Sand Creek Wildlife Station, we descend closer to the river, but again, cruise at a safe height, as turbulence swirls over and around the craggy cliffs.

The White Cliffs of the Missouri River… and for the first time we come across kayaks and canoes and the paddlers wave as we pass above. We must appear relatively strange… this line of aircraft out of the present roaring into an area largely unchanged in the past 200 years… but we throttle back and pass as quickly and quietly as we can.

Old, fairly small log cabins and corrals occasionally emerge from the brush in the bottom of the canyon… the only evidence of civilization. Lewis and Clark thought initially that the White Cliffs were battlements of cities; that's easy to understand as we cruise by, looking for the Welsh Indians.

We leave the river's deep fissure and get in line for a 45 degree entry and a series of perfect landings at Fort Benton. We're the only aircraft on the field as we lunch in the very small but accommodating FBO. This is the first airfield that Julie has found native plants… including Lewis' Flax. We meet members of the airport commission and give out medallions in appreciation of them coming out to pump fuel for us. Next time we're here, I promise to stay longer and investigate historical opportunities in town.

A short flight later up the dams stair-stepping down the River and we're into Great Falls, MT where the weather becomes extremely threatening along our route of flight for tomorrow. We put the WACOs in hangers and batten down the other aircraft. FBOs don't get much better than Holman Aviation… where they stepped up and arranged transportation and suggested hotels and points of interest, as it became more obvious that we would be staying until the weather cleared.

While half the crew stayed in town to do laundry and just generally relax for the evening, a bunch of us took a van provided by Dave Pierce, of Pierce's Superstores in Great Falls, south to Craig, MT and a pre-arranged wild game feast on Dave Shield's ranch… located off to the side of a side of a side road and across two creeks. Like everyone else, I practically foundered on smoked pheasant, grouse, trout, elk ribs and venison. Realizing someone would have to drive us out of this bear habitat, I foreswore the alcoholic stimulants that appeared to make the fire glow much brighter and the songs in the van on the way back to Great Falls much louder for the rest of the group.

Day 10
"Slept in" for the first time since May 26th… almost until 6:30am. It's remarkable that here where Lewis and Clark's Corps struggled mightily around the Great Falls of the Missouri, we also meet our first impediment weather. But such is the fabric of this expedition that we all see this as an opportunity for a much-needed break and the chance to actually spend some time at the local museums.

We are awed by the National Park Service Interpretive Center and spend most of the morning there. Lunch was recommended (by NPS employees) to be a local soda fountain where I had a killer chocolate malt.

I regret being so tired as to not make it to the Charlie Russell Museum… but that's s omething to look forward to next year. Instead, I worked on my journals, did laundry and watched Reagan's funeral in Washington, DC.

Nice article in the morning paper on the FOD and the people at the hotel could not have been more accommodating. Julie, Jill and Jeanette whip up the best carnitas I've had in my life and the crew chows down on the rainy patio before turning in early.

Co-Expedition Leader Daily Log Notes: Wednesday, June 09, 2004

The expedition departs Wolf Point on schedule to undertake the longest leg of the expedition yet. We take off from Wolf Point and turn up river towards Great Falls.

As accurately documented by the original 1804 expedition, the white cliffs along the banks of this section of the Missouri are truly majestic and do look to be a hand crafted work of art. This could only be the artistic work of God himself. The big blue skies back grounding the white cliffs that tower over the green grassy valleys boarding the now clearing waters of the Missouri make this the most beautiful part to the voyage yet.

The white canyon wall cliffs empty into the Great Falls plains. The Great Falls so elegantly described by Captain Lewis are now rock shelved gorges with very little water flow. The water falls flow is now dammed and diverted through hydroelectric power stations.

We arrive in Great Falls under cloud layers with lowering ceilings which pose to cause a delay in our departure

Co-Expedition Leader Daily Log Notes: Thursday, June 10, 2004

The expedition is delayed one nights stay in Great Falls, Montana due to troublesome weather conditions not safe to navigate by aircraft. The decision to overnight was agreeably unanimous among the corps members. The original expedition experienced many of the same delays. The Great Falls themselves, set the original expedition back many weeks as recorded by Captain Lewis.

Sciences


Botany

The photo below was taken south of Havre, Montana. Note concentric circles of vegetation as seen from the air. A similar phenomena occurs in the Mojave desert with Creosote, where plants can grow from the center outwards, so that a large clone results. These plants were not identified.

Photo of vegetation circles
Geology

Today was dinomania. I traveled with the ground crew so we could stop and check out dinosaurs along the way. At Fort Peck Dam, where a museum is opening with the intent on becoming the largest dinosaur museum in the country, we stopped to view their exhibits. The museum was closed. It hasn't opened yet since it is still under construction. An employee happened to be there and allowed us in to view a Tyrannosaurus Rex. Wow, what were the chances that we would get in to see the dinosaur? It was ur lucky day! We drove up to the dam, which is the largest earthen structure in the country. In 1938, the dam collapsed during construction and

several men lost there lives. The surrounding shale slipped along its bedding planes, resulting in slope failure. There were very few outcrops along the highway, but that was no dissapointment, because we chanced to find a small museum with dinos in Malta, Montana. There we saw an Aptosaur and Elvis, a bronchylophosaur. The Dinosaur Field Station down the street is where paleontologists and volunteers carefully remove the surrouding sandstone from the fossilized bones. There we met three dinosaurs, Roberta, Peanut and Leonardo, all bronchylophosaurs. Would you believe that some of the fossils had preserved tendons and muscle tissue? Leonardo even had a
preserved stomach and skin! Wow! They told us that Leonardo was going to have a CAT scan to see if his heart was preserved. This information would help solve the question of whether the dinosuars were warm or cold blooded.